I’m not going to tell you about all the must-see attractions when visiting Madeira. I’m not going to give you a packed itinerary that has you ticking off sights from dawn till dusk. Because that’s not how we experienced this island, and honestly, I’m glad we didn’t. We went to Madeira in July needing to recharge. Life had been stressful – you know that feeling where everything’s fine on paper but you’re running on empty? We needed somewhere we could just be for a week. Somewhere the wee one could play in the pool, somewhere not too far, not too hot, and somewhere we could actually relax rather than feel we were missing out if we weren’t constantly on the go. Somewhere as a change of scenary from Spain. Visiting Madeira turned out to be perfect for exactly that.
Why Madeira Works for Slowing Down
There’s something about this island that makes you want to slow down naturally. It’s not lazy – it’s intentional. The landscape does something to you. Everywhere you look there are these dramatic mountains covered in the most vibrant green, tumbling down to the deep blue Atlantic. The air feels different. Perhaps it’s the fact that you’re surrounded by volcanic peaks and lush forests, or maybe it’s just that you’re on an island where life moves at a gentler pace.
We stayed at Eden Mar with the most incredible view from our balcony. Every morning have a cuppa looking out at the coastline, watching the clouds shift and change the light on the mountains. That alone was worth the trip. You don’t need to do anything when you wake up to that – you just want to sit and appreciate it. But we pulled ourselves away for a delcious breakfast in the hotel restaurant.
The weather in July was spot on. Not the oppressive heat you get in some Mediterranean destinations where you’re hiding indoors during the afternoon. Madeira sits in the Atlantic, so there’s always a breeze. We had sunshine, yes, but it was comfortable, usually around 28 degrees which was similar to back home. I was over the heat by the time we went on holiday. We had one hot spell after another it felt like back home in the UK. Our four-year-old could actually be outside without complaining it was too hot (minor miracle), and we weren’t dripping with sweat the moment we stepped out of the air conditioning. We’d been hibernating at home in our cool living room for weeks it felt like, unless it was early morning that was.
What We Actually Did Visiting Madeira (And Didn’t Do)
We went on one boat trip. One. In a whole week. And that was plenty.
It was a catamaran trip along the coast, and we saw dolphins. Our little one loved it, we loved it, and then we were quite happy to not feel we had to do another one. No FOMO about missing out on the other seventeen boat trips available. That’s the thing about Madeira – you can do one thing and it feels like enough because you’re not rushing, you’re actually experiencing it.
The rest of the time? We were just there. Spending time by the pool. Reading (actual books, not just scrolling). Walking when we felt like it. Eating lovely food. Watching the sunset from our balcony with a glass of wine. Letting our four-year-old play without scheduling every second. You know, the things you can’t really put in an itinerary but that actually fill up your energy tanks.
We considered the Madeira Cable Car but to be honest I don’t love heights. We do it when we ski becuase you have to but sightseeing from a great height dangling precariously on some very strong (I’m sure) wire isn’t for me. And it certainly would have fell into the ‘should’ category too. We should do it because we are here, rather than because we want to. And as we know that is something I’m really fighting to get away from nowadays.
The Nature All Around You
What struck me most about Madeira was how much nature is just there, everywhere you look. You can’t escape it, and why would you want to?
The island is covered in laurel forests – these ancient, mystical-looking woods that are apparently UNESCO World Heritage sites. Even just wandering around our hotel grounds, I was delighted to spot a Monstera growing in the garden – you know, those trendy plants with the split leaves that we keep indoors in Britain, desperately trying to keep them alive? Here they were just casually growing outside like weeds. It’s that kind of climate.
Ferns everywhere, flowers we’d never seen before, banana plants, passion fruit vines – the whole island has this lush tropical feeling without being tropical hot. Everything is so green and alive that it almost doesn’t look real.
There are levadas – these water channels that crisscross the island – and paths that run alongside them. We didn’t do any of the famous levada walks this trip. With a four-year-old in tow, those narrow paths with decent drops alongside didn’t sound like the best way to relax for us. We know we’ll be back to explore more another time, when it makes sense for where we are in life. That’s the beauty of finding a place you love – you don’t have to see everything at once.
If you’re someone who gets energy from being in nature (and I absolutely am), Madeira gives you that without having to work hard for it. It’s not like you need to drive for hours to find a nice spot – the nature is the island. You’re in it the moment you step outside.
That Walk Through Funchal
Our Funchal visit happened after our boat trip. We’d got an Uber there in the morning so we didn’t have to rush (rushing is the enemy of a good holiday, in my opinion), enjoyed the catamaran trip seeing dolphins pliot whales and even a turtle, and then decided to walk back through the town.
We had a lovely lunch in the old town first – that relaxed Portuguese pace where no one’s trying to turn your table, where you can just sit and enjoy your food and the fact that you’re on holiday. Then we started the amble back after a look inside the cathedral. I love a visit to a religious building, just ask my hubby. I dragged him in every church in Rome whilst we were there. I’m not even religious but I love the architecture and attention to detail from that bygone era.
This is where Madeira surprised us again. We walked through a park on the route back, and I’ve never seen so many lizards in my life. Dozens of them, in this incredible array of colours – greens, blues, browns – just sunbathing on the walls and paths, completely unbothered by people. Our four-year-old was absolutely mesmerised. Actually, so was I. For those who don’t know I do particularly love lizards…and ducks!
The greenery in this park was stunning. That lush, vibrant green you only get in places with the right climate and rainfall. Combined with the colourful flowers everywhere – bougainvillea cascading over walls, exotic blooms we couldn’t name – I was in absolute heaven. This is what I mean about Madeira doing something to you. A simple walk back from lunch became one of the highlights of the trip because everything was just so alive.
The Lidos Are Brilliant When Visiting Madeira
One thing Madeira does really well is the lidos – these seawater swimming pools built into the rocky coastline. They’re everywhere along the south coast, and they’re absolutely brilliant.
The beauty of a lido is you get the experience of swimming in the Atlantic – the salt water, the waves breaking nearby, the ocean right there – but with the safety and ease of a pool. Some have the pool element but next door to that one we found a free spot with a lifeguard that had steps you could just jump into the sea. We took it in turns whilst the other stayed with the wee one. I love swimming in the sea and the ease of entery and exit and life guard made this spot a real find.
The fish situation was a proper win too. We could see so many more beautiful fish than we ever do on the Spanish coast, and Madeira is only a slightly longer flight! Snorkelling in the clear water around the lidos, we saw fish in colours and varieties that made it feel much more exotic than our usual family holiday destination.
We did consider visiting the Piscinas Naturais do Aquário/Cachalote on the north of the island – those beautiful natural pools everyone photographs. But when we thought about it properly, it meant a long drive on windy mountain roads in an Uber. Which made me mildly nervous, just to swim in the exact same ocean we could walk to and jump in five minutes from our hotel room. Yes, we missed the dramatic rock formations, but it felt like a suitable trade-off. We chose ease and relaxation over Instagram-worthy locations, and I’m glad we did.
The Food Situation Visiting Madeira
Let’s talk about food, because it’s important when you’re on holiday. Well I think it’s important most of the time.
Portuguese food is brilliant anyway, but Madeira has its own specialities. Fresh fish everywhere – we’re talking properly fresh, caught that day. They do this black scabbard fish that sounds weird but tastes amazing. Espada, they call it. Served with banana and passion fruit, which sounds like it shouldn’t work but absolutely does.
The fruit is incredible. We had bananas growing outside our accommodation. Just there for the taking, well our 4 year old thought so. But they were very high and very green so I don’t recommend it. Mangoes, bananas, everything tasting like it actually should taste when it’s grown in sunshine and picked ripe rather than shipped across continents.
And the wine – oh, the wine. Madeira wine is fortified and sweet, which isn’t my usual choice, given that I don’t drink alcohol anymore. But we sat on the balcony more than one evening with a glass (well hubby did and I had more than a few sips, it’s like drinking syrup). We watching the sun go down, and it felt like exactly what we were supposed to be doing.
Check Out These Restaurants
Restaurants were friendly and we were very lucky to have so many brilliant options within a 5 minute walk of our hotel. I’m not kidding, there must have been at least 20. I highly recommend the Buddha Tandoori. We went there twice during our stay, we really enjoy indian food and it was great qulaity with friendly staff.
But the real gem has to be the unassuming, Chefe Steak House and Sea Basket. We had the steaks on the stone both times we visited. Followed by the chocolate mousse, which brought back childhood memories for me. Even the 80’s high glass bowls they are served in. The staff were really friendly even though it was busy. They turned people away by 7pm on our second visit. Luckily we’d booked our table when we had such a great meal the first time. I noticed several people we’d seen the time before too. Many people don’t go back to the same restaurant so quickly so it really shows how nice the place is. Yes you look over a car park but your eye is drawn to the sea beyond it so it really is a pleasant view.
On that note, the car park is for the very useful supermarket below the restaurant. It is large and reasonably priced and you could definitely get everything you wanted for a full week of self catering from there. We were delighted to find it on our first day.
Getting Around Without a Car
Here’s something that surprised us, we didn’t hire a car at all, and we didn’t miss it. We’d intended to do some island exploring before we realised how tired we were and how much in need of a break and chill.
We grabbed a taxi from the airport to Eden Mar, which was only about 30 minutes away. The taxi was actually cheaper than the pre-booked transfers we’d looked at, so that was a bonus. Once we were there, we just used Ubers when we needed to go anywhere, which worked perfectly for us.
I’ve heard from others who hired cars that parking can be absolutely awful at a lot of the popular destinations, particularly up north where everyone goes to see the dramatic landscapes. The stress of navigating mountain roads and then finding somewhere to park doesn’t sound like much of a recharge to me. We were quite happy to let someone else do the driving and just enjoy the views.
The beauty of staying on the south coast at Eden Mar was that we didn’t need to go far anyway. Everything we wanted was accessible, and the Uber costs for the few trips we did take were minimal compared to car hire, fuel, and the hassle.
Why Madeira Beat Our Usual Spanish Holidays
We normally go to the Spanish coast just off the Algarve for family holidays. It’s reliable, the flights are short, and we know what we’re getting. But Madeira – Madeira felt like an upgrade, and it’s barely any further to fly.
The greenery is the biggest difference. Spain is beautiful, but it’s that dry, golden, scrubby landscape. Madeira is green – properly, intensely, almost tropical green. It’s the difference between looking at brown hills and looking at mountains covered in forests. For someone like me who gets energy from being in nature, that greenness was like taking a deep breath after being in a stuffy room.
The fish and marine life were noticeably better too. More variety, more colour, clearer water. Our four-year-old couldn’t believe how many fish there were.
And the food – Portuguese food just edges out Spanish for us. Where we go in Spain is fairly small and the food feels very ‘samey’. We ate better in Madeira than we have in years of Spanish holidays and there were still plenty of options to try.
For barely any extra flight time and similar costs, Madeira gave us everything we love about Spain but with more greenery, better marine life, and food that excited us.
The Practical Bits That Matter
Getting There
It’s only about a 3.5-4 hour flight from the UK. Short enough that a four-year-old could handle it without too much complaining. Long enough to feel like you’re going somewhere different. We flew into Funchal airport, which is an experience in itself – landing on that runway that seems to stick out into the sea is quite something.
Where We Stayed
We had an apartment at Eden Mar with that view I mentioned. We chose to do B&B which worked well for us because we could have breakfast in the hotel which made you get up in time for it. So, we could make snacks when needed, and not feel tied to hotel meal times and of course get out to try local restaurants. The location was perfect – close enough to everything but quiet enough to feel like an escape.
The Cost
Madeira is more affordable than a lot of European destinations. It’s not dirt cheap, but you get good value. Eating out didn’t break the bank, Uber trips were reasonable, and accommodation was good value for what we got. The taxi from the airport was cheaper than pre-booked transfers, which was a pleasant surprise.
Who Is This Island For?
I think Madeira is perfect for everyone. There is plenty to do for the explorers but you absolutely shouldn’t rule it out if you fancy a chilled one either. It was fanastic with small children because you didn’t constantly worry about them burning to a crisp.
It’s for people who want nature without having to be hardcore hikers but it’s for the hardcore hikers too (my brother and his wife did the hiking when they went). If you want good weather without scorching heat. You want want lots of interesting food options. You want to be abroad but don’t want the hassle of long flights or massive tourist crowds. Although if you are heading into town check the cruise arrivals and plan around it. You can click on the boats to check for size too because not all cruise ships are the same as each other as we know.
And if you’re at all drawn to slowing down, to living more seasonally or cyclically, to connecting with nature and taking time to actually be somewhere rather than just seeing it – Madeira will speak to you. It certainly spoke to us.
What We Brought Home
The obvious answer is rest. We came back actually recharged, not needing a holiday from the holiday. Our four-year-old was calmer. We were calmer. We’d had proper time together without the usual life pressures.
But there’s something else I brought back that’s harder to quantify. It’s a reminder that you don’t have to fill every moment. That sitting on a balcony watching the light change on the mountains is a perfectly valid way to spend your morning. That nature is restorative in ways that no amount of spa treatments can match. And, that good food, simple pleasures, and just being present with the people you love is actually the whole point.
Will we go back to Madeira?
We already know we’ll be back. Not to “do” more of Madeira – there’s plenty we didn’t see, and we’re fine with that. But to have that experience again. To slow down somewhere beautiful and remember what it feels like to just be. Whilst ticking off another must do for us and leaving plenty more to return to do the next time. I’m pretty sure I found my place when it comes to local(ish). I really want to go back to the Greek Islands but July will be far too hot for me there. This is one of the things I really loved about Madeira. Although I would say when you are checking the weather make sure you search Funchal and Madiera because there is a significant difference if you head up the mountains.
Two people we know who never go back to the same places had both told us they would absolutely return to Madeira. Now we understand why. It’s not about ticking things off a list – it’s about finding a place that gives you what you need. And when you find that, you want to go back.
If that sounds like something you need right now, I can’t recommend Madeira enough.
Planning Your Own Slow Madeira Trip
If you’re thinking about visiting Madeira for the same kind of recharge we had, here are a few practical thoughts:
When to go: We went in July and the weather was perfect for us. Not too hot, not rainy. Spring and autumn are also lovely apparently – milder still, and you get the flowers in spring. Summer is busy but not overwhelmingly so like some European destinations.
Where to stay: We stayed on the south coast where most of the accommodation is. The north is wilder and less developed if you want even more peace. Just having a view matters more than you’d think – we spent so much time on that balcony. My borther split his time there and stayed in a hotel in Funchal and did a few days in the north too.
What to book in advance: Honestly, not much. We booked the flights and accommodation, and the one boat trip. Everything else we just did (or didn’t do) as we felt like it.
How long: A week was perfect for us. Long enough to properly unwind but not so long that we felt pressure to fill time.
If you want help planning a trip to Madeira (or anywhere else that helps you actually love life more), I can help through my travel services. Just email travel@lovelifemore.uk. I’m not about cramming your itinerary full – I’m about helping you find the right place and pace for what you actually need right now.
Have you been to Madeira?
What did you love about it? Or if you’re thinking about going, what questions do you have? I’d love to hear in the comments.
Remember, loving life more isn’t about perfection or having all the answers. It’s about remaining open to growth and finding joy in the journey, wherever it leads you.
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“Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.”
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